Kurentovanje: the largest Shrovetide carnival in Slovenia
Take a look behind the scenes of the largest Shrovetide carnival in Slovenia, which is part of the UNESCO heritage and is considered one of the most flamboyant carnivals in the world according to the Lonely Planet.
Kurentovanje: The holiday of spring and tradition
During the Shrovetide, the oldest Slovenian town, Ptuj, is transformed into a great carnival venue where the famous Kurenti rule. The tradition of Kurentovanje goes back more than 60 years and is one of the largest Shrovetide carnivals in Slovenia. The figure of Kurenti and their door-to-door rounds during Shrovetide have been entered on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Other traditional Shrovetide figures and masks join Kurenti in the parade and create a cheerful atmosphere in the streets and squares of Ptuj. There are plenty of reasons for you to visit the carnival and enjoy the frolicking Shrovetide celebrations. But, before you visit Ptuj, we’ll take you behind the scenes of the carnival considered one of the most picturesque in the world.
Lonely Planet has listed Kurentovanje as one of the ten best carnivals in the world, on a par with those in Venice, Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans.
Who are Kurenti?
They may be scary at first sight but they have a good heart. This briefly describes Kurenti, the most famous and popular Slovenian traditional Shrovetide characters, which are also the most renowned symbol of Ptuj. Their origins have roots in mythology and their main task is to chase away evil forces and invite better times into the country in the form of prosperity, a warm spring or good harvest.
The knowledge of historical facts, tradition and relationship towards the preservation of cultural heritage are the foundations of true Koranti or Kurenti. To be a Korant/Kurent means to call in the good and ward off the bad, which can only be done with kind-heartedness and pure energy.
Aleš Ivančič, Chairman of the Association of Kurent Societies on Kurenti characteristics
The door-to-door rounds of Kurenti, which are inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, start on Candlemas, 2 February, and end on Ash Wednesday. Once, they visited houses in the nearby villages in the Ptuj and Drava fields, the Haloze Hills and the Slovenske Gorice Hills, but now they end their rounds in Ptuj at the traditional Kurentovanje.
A visit by Kurenti brings good fortune all year long, unless they roll on the ground in the yard of a homestead. Koranti or Kurenti perform their demonic dance, with which they herald spring and chase away bad energy. Their dance marks a new beginning and it’s a good sign that the soil will bear plentiful produce. Locals have deep respect for Kurenti and reward them with treats. They usually give them pork meat, especially sausages, and the girls tie handkerchiefs onto their hedgehog skin-wrapped sticks as a sign of affection.
If once the rule was that only young men could dress up as Kurenti, the kurentija costume is nowadays worn by all generations, from the youngest to the elderly and even some girls and women are among them.
During the traditional Kurentovanje festivities, Kurenti have their special day, the Day of Kurent and Korant Groups, which usually takes place one week before Ash Wednesday. On that day, hundreds of feathered and horned Kurenti gather in Ptuj.
Learn about Kurenti in countless ways. Kurent or Korant? Scary or friendly? Both, actually. Discover the diverse face masks of Kurenti, Shrovetide traditions, customs and rituals that accompany the famous Shrovetide character who roams around Ptuj and its surroundings during the Shrovetide. In doing so, you’ll also learn about some interesting curiosities that accompany Kurentovanje in Ptuj.
You’ll easily recognise Kurenti due to their distinctive attire called kurentija. This consists of a hat, a sheepskin suit, green or red knee-high stockings, bells attached to a chain around the belt, and a ježevka (a thick stick wrapped in hedgehog skin). Kurentija was once made from the material that was at hand on farms.
Only a few artisans make kurentija nowadays. One of them is Marko Klinc, who continues the family tradition. The beginnings of their craft go back to the early 1950s when Shrovetide rituals reached new dimensions with the development of Kurentovanje. The entire family is involved in the making of kurentija and the process has been passed on to the second and third generations and the new generation as well.
The making of kurentija is not an easy task. It takes several weeks to make one costume, depending on a client’s wishes and the natural materials available. The attire is made by hand and the price reflects that. Nevertheless, the number of orders grows every year, which testifies to the fact that Kurent’s popularity as a Shrovetide character is also growing.
When making Kurent’s attire, the experience and knowledge gained over time and through generations count the most. Craftsmanship skills and a sense of working with natural materials are also important.
Marko Klinc, master of kurentija making
To wear kurentija or korantija is quite a challenge, as the costume may weigh more than 40 kg, depending on the size and type of bells, fur density and the weight of the different materials. But a true Kurent wears it with pride.
To put on korantija means to me a celebration of life. To be a herald and worshipper of the good is a life’s mission.
Aleš Ivančič, Chairman of the Association of Kurent Societies
Kurenti’s entourage at Kurentovanje
In addition to Kurenti, other traditional ethnographic characters also attend Kurentovanje. Some already join Kurenti on their rounds, while others participate in the parade on the streets of Ptuj.
It is customary in certain towns in Slovenia for Shrovetide characters to take over municipal authority until Ash Wednesday. Only symbolically, of course. During the opening ceremony of Kurentovanje, the Prince of the Carnival receives the keys of the town from the Ptuj mayor. A new prince is voted in every second year on St Martin’s Day, 11 November. But not everyone can become the prince. This position is only reserved for those who have proven themselves in the social and cultural fields and significantly contributed to the visibility of Kurentovanje and Shrovetide tradition in Ptuj. Every prince also assumes the role of a certain historical figure and is dressed accordingly.
Miro Kokol, who is originally from Destrnik but has lived in Ptuj for many years, has now assumed the honorary role of the Prince of the Carnival. Among other things, he was the driving force behind the founding of the korant association in Destrnik, where he remains actively involved. He also knows what it's like to wear a kurent costume.
At the Kurentovanje festival, he appears as Jakob Volovšek, Captain of Destrnik. The story of the mayor’s brave son, who earned his master’s trust and the title of captain through his devoted service to Count Leslie, the lord of Ptuj, has a romantic undertone. He protected his beloved from a wicked suitor, who is said to still roam the forests around Ptuj to this day. Jakob Volovšek exudes prudence, wisdom, resourcefulness, and courage.
It’s not just a crown and a cloak, it’s a symbol of trust, tradition and joy.
Miro Kokol, also known as Jakob Volovški, Captain of Destrnik, speaking at his inauguration about his role as the Prince of the Carnival
Although, the Prince of the Carnival is a master of protocol at central Shrovetide events and an ambassador of Kurentovanje, you can venture with him on the carnival wanderings around Ptuj.
Welcome among Kurenti and other Shrovetide characters in Ptuj!
It all begins on Candlemas, when it’s time for Kurent’s jump. By the light of a fire at midnight, Kurenti put on their bells and symbolically begin chasing away the winter. Numerous parades, Shrovetide promenade, displays of ethnographic characters, concerts, masquerade balls, exhibitions and other events take place at EtnoFest, ArtFest and CarnivalFest within the framework of Kurentovanje.
Kurent House: in the company of Kurenti throughout the year
Meet Kurent interactively any time of the year. Visit Kurent House, where you can feel, see and hear about the special energy radiating from Kurent or Korant. With the help of modern technology, you’ll be able to fully experience the cultural heritage, tradition and customs linked with Kurenti, including at the time when Shrovetide celebrations end. Until 2029, Kurent House enjoys the honorary patronage of the Slovenian National Commission for UNESCO.
Although Kurenti are the most iconic carnival figures in Slovenia, they are certainly not the only ones who attract visitors to Ptuj and elsewhere. Learn about Laufarji from Cerkno, Škoromati from the Brkini Hills and other ethnological figures and check out which Shrovetide carnivals you should visit in Slovenia. And don’t forget, Shrovetide is also the time when you can spoil your taste buds with traditional Shrovetide delights.
Shrovetide masks and customs that you can find only in Slovenia
Learn about unique ethnographic Shrovetide characters that are mostly made from natural materials and reflect current social developments and interpersonal relationships. It’s fascinating to see how certain characters remain topically “evergreen”. Visit other great Shrovetide celebrations in Slovenian cities and towns. And learn about Shrovetide customs and dishes.
In addition to Kurentovanje and other fascinating carnivals, you can also mix with the crowd of Shrovetide masks in other Slovenian towns. Check out the selection of Shrovetide events and dance with masks to welcome the spring.
A visit to Kurentovanje and other carnivals can be made even more enjoyable with an exploration of cultural and ethnological heritage. Discover cultural treasures, the UNESCO heritage, take a walk in lively towns steeped in history and learn about the interesting customs and rituals of Slovenians.
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