Cerkljanska laufarija: Unique Shrovetide custom in Cerkno
Discover one of the greatest ethnological Shrovetide carnivals featuring traditional masks and original dramaturgy.
Who are the Cerkno laufarji?
Cerkljanska laufarija (the Laufarija carnival in Cerkno) is one of the major Slovenian ethnological Shrovetide carnivals, attracting locals and visitors from far and near every year. This Shrovetide custom occupies the lives of local people in Cerkno and the surrounding villages at the time after the New Year and before Shrovetide.
The main characters are named laufarji (runners). They wear authentic wooden masks called larfe and dress in costumes made from various natural materials. A total of 25 characters represent different human traits, professions and social positions. Some of them are named after the materials from which their costumes are made. You are invited to enter their world and learn about the long-standing traditions of the Cerkljansko region.
Since 2014, Cerkljanska laufarija has been listed in the Slovenian Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage and declared a living masterpiece of national importance.
Cerkljanska laufarija is a unique homage to a tradition that has been present in Cerkno and its surrounding area for centuries. After the First World War, the tradition died out, but was revived in 1956 on the basis of oral sources and has thus been delighting visitors for seven decades.
The mission of the Laufarija Cerkno Society is to preserve the invaluable tradition left by previous generations in the most authentic form, while exploring new ways of showcasing this original masterpiece for future generations.
Tomaž Lahajnar, President of the Laufarija Cerkno Society
The most renowned characters of Cerkljanska laufarija
Discover some of the most distinct Shrovetide characters of Cerkljanska laufarija.
Pust
The main character is dressed in moss and carries a small spruce tree in his hands. He is accused of all the bad things and mishaps that have happened in the immediate and more distant surrounding area, and is tried and sentenced to “death” on Shrove Tuesday.
Ta star (the Old Man)
This is the only speaking mask. He is the master of the laufarji family and is dressed in the old Cerkno festive peasant costume. In the parade, he walks together with ta stara (the Old Woman), who carries a birch broom to sweep away the winter and everything bad.
Ta terjast (the Warp Man)
One of the most impressive characters of Laufarija representing the spirit of the dead.He wears a costume made from terje – warp left over from weaving linen. He plays the role of a policeman or steward, maintaining order and clearing the way for the parade by using his hazel stick.
Ta loparjev (the Peel Man)
This is a representative of the Cerkljansko craftsmen – bakers. He holds a bread peel, a tool used for placing bread in the oven, on which it says DEATH TO PUST and the annual date of Shrovetide.
Ta bršljanov (the Ivy Man) and Marjetica (Daisy)
These characters represent spring and everything good that comes with it. The costume of ta bršljanov is made anew every year and comprises between 8,000 and 10,000 ivy leaves.
Ta smrekov (the Spruce Man)
The brother of Pust walks directly behind him in the parade and takes Pust’s small spruce tree after his “execution”. His costume is also made from scratch every year.
Ta pijan (the Drunk Man) and ta pijana (the Drunk Woman)
They are the most jovial characters in the parade and represent human weakness – alcoholism. They are the only characters who can leave the parade.
Photo: Tine Venko
When you put on the mask (larfa), you have to be constantly aware of the people who wore this mask before you, your ancestors, older laufarji... and the powerful story that the mask thus carries. This is not just an ordinary piece of wood that fits onto the face. What stories the mask could tell if it was able to speak. It is an honour to don the costume of any character, having earned the trust to play its role.
Miha Bavcon, member of the laufarji “family”
Photo: Tine Venko
Costume preparation
Respecting the customs tradition requires elaborate preparations. These start as early as the autumn, when natural materials (moss, spruce and ivy twigs) are collected to make the costumes, which must be carefully stitched together every year afresh.
Photo: Tine Venko
The sewing of ta bršljanov takes a great deal of patience because every ivy leaf must be sewn onto the costume twice, and there must be between 8,000 and 10,000 of these small leaves. When picking ivy leaves, we must be careful that they are of the same size and colour and are not damaged...”
Miha Bavcon, member of the Cerkno laufarji
Photo:Tine Venko
The material for the costumes must be treated appropriately. For example, moss for Pust must be dried to the right degree, since it weighs between 60 and 80 kilograms. Just imagine the weight Pust would have to carry if the moss was too damp.
The making of each costume takes time and patience, but the work is easier in the good company of other members who, just like me, live for this tradition.
Žan Eržen, member of the Cerkno laufarji
Other costumes and the wooden face masks also receive attention, as they too must be restored from time to time.
Laufarji gather and condemn Pust
Sunday parades of laufarji start immediately after New Year. Every Sunday, a new member joins the group until everyone gathers on Shrove Tuesday. Before Shrovetide, they also visit the surrounding villages and wish people a good harvest and good health.
On Shrove Tuesday, they dig up a wooden hammer (bot) and the Imperial Royal Court reads out the indictment (kalamoun) against Pust, which is eight metres long. The indictment is in the Cerkljansko dialect and its contents keep Laufarija topical even today. Due to all the bad things and mishaps that have happened in the town and surrounding area, Pust is sentenced to “death by bot”. In the end, the characters dance ta kapcinarska, a combined polka and dirge that concludes the Shrovetide ceremony.
I am pleased and proud that, in spite of all the past challenges, Cerkljanska Laufarija was preserved and persisted, and has firmly rooted itself in the hearts of local people over the seven decades. No one can imagine Shrovetide in the Cerkljansko region without it.
Tomaž Lahajnar, President of the Laufarija Cerkno Society
Welcome to Cerkno
Cerkno is a true treasure trove of cultural and natural heritage. The oldest musical instrument in the world was found here, and it’s also the place where the famed laufarji roam during Shrovetide, while jazz musicians occupy the town in summer. Unique thermal water trickles through a geological fault, supplying the only spa in the foothills of the Julian Alps. The Cerkno Ski Resort is one of the most popular ski centres in Slovenia in winter, while the rounded hilltops attract hikers and cyclists in summertime.
Cerkljanska laufarija is but one of the many Shrovetide events you can experience in Slovenia. Carnival cheer, dancing and parades can be seen in numerous towns and cities. Learn about the interesting customs taking place during Shrovetide and the delicious goodies that you can enjoy at Shrovetide without feeling guilty.
Browse through a selection of Shrovetide celebrations in Slovenia, put on your mask or a costume, and join in the merry atmosphere of the squares and streets.
Shrovetide represents a bridge between winter and spring. Winter is fun in Slovenia, particularly if you spend it actively on snow. But those who prefer to stay warm can also enjoy great experiences. If you crave more spring-like temperatures, you can find places that boast a milder climate, too.
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