A perfect day of training with Janja Garnbret on the Slovenian coast

A truly special day on the Slovenian coast

Janja Garnbret, the first—and, after the Paris Olympics, the only—two-time Olympic champion in the history of sport climbing, achieved her first major victory at the World Championships in Paris at just 17 years old. Despite the many changes since then, Janja continues to climb for the sheer joy of it, consistently surpassing the achievements of all who came before her.

Much of the credit for her remarkable achievements goes to her coach, Roman Krajnik, who began working with her in 2019 as they prepared for the first Olympic Games. As the 2024 Olympic season approaches, they took a break for a truly special day, blending intensive training in Koper with a chance to explore the stunning Slovenian coast.

How did sport climbing become so popular in Slovenia?  

Slovenia has a rich climbing heritage, with many Slovenians having conquered some of the world's highest peaks through pioneering routes, earning golden ice axes and gaining a strong international reputation.

In recent years, the country has seen a surge in the popularity of sport climbing, with numerous new climbing centres attracting both children and adults. Janja Garnbret stands out as the ultimate role model and source of inspiration for these climbers. Her influence is so profound that she enjoys a celebrity status both at home and abroad, comparable to that of musicians or film stars.

To prepare for her next challenges, Janja and her coach, Roman Krajnik, headed to Koper. This city not only offers excellent training conditions but also boasts pleasant weather year-round and exceptional hospitality. These qualities also make it a favoured destination for climbers from around the globe who travel to Koper to compete in the in the Lead Climbing World Cup.

The formula for success: hard work and strong communication

While Janja prepares for her training, Roman is already analysing the various routes on the outdoor wall, which is visible from the Koper bypass and offers a stunning view of the Bay of Trieste. After her sensational second gold medal win at the Paris Olympics, Janja is eager to take on new challenges. The chemistry and playfulness in the professional relationship between the world’s top sport climber and the world’s most successful coach have been the cornerstone of their remarkable success over the past four years.

As you watch their training, it quickly becomes clear that they communicate almost wordlessly. When slips or mistakes happen, a single glance between them is often enough to pinpoint the issue. But Roman admits it’s not always that smooth. There are moments when more words are needed, and occasionally, those words are exchanged at a higher volume. Despite this, Roman explains, Janja remains professional and a true perfectionist. Her ability to read routes is nothing short of extraordinary, allowing her to navigate the holds and move her body as if gravity doesn’t apply to her. From the foot of the wall, Roman monitors her every motion, with even the smallest tilt of his head serving as a signal to Janja about whether she has solved the climbing problem correctly.

The Koper Climbing Centre, which features both a bouldering hall and a towering outdoor wall for lead climbing, is part of the larger Bonifika Sports Park. This expansive facility caters to both professional and recreational athletes, offering amenities like an athletics and football stadium, tennis courts, an open-air fitness venue and handball and volleyball courts. For running and cycling enthusiasts, the seaside trails offer breathtaking views of the wine-growing hills of Slovenian Istria, alongside the vibrant activity in the streets of the former fishing towns on the Slovenian coast.
 

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Sun and sea 365 days a year: welcome to the Slovenian coast!

Janja Garnbret, a passionate admirer of warm weather, sun and sea, finds true luxury in her workouts when she reaches the top of the climbing wall and breathes in the refreshing sea air, gazing out over the multifaceted Slovenian coastline. At the base of the wall, the cheers of passers-by, recognizing the Olympic champion, blend with requests for photos. Roman, a veteran coach of national and international climbing teams, fully appreciates the popularity of sports climbing today. He takes great pride in how his protégé inspires children and young people to embrace climbing.

During the recent competition in Koper, Janja achieved a much-wanted victory, captivating over 5,000 fans. Beyond the enthusiasm of the local crowd, Koper is a favourite World Cup venue for Janja, thanks to the exceptional hospitality at the Grand Koper Hotel. When Janja and Roman walk into the hotel restaurant, they are greeted as if visiting old friends. The Grand Koper Hotel, once a school building, impresses with its remarkable location, warm and genuine hospitality, and innovative architecture. For Janja, it’s more than just a place to stay; it’s a cherished retreat away from the climbing walls during every World Cup.

Grand Koper Hotel: Janja's coastal retreat

Sun, crabs and goats are more than just symbols; they weave through the design of the Capra restaurant and the Grand Koper Hotel, creating a distinctive ambiance. Over lunch, Janja and Roman use this time to review their training strategies and reflect on their memories of the Paris Olympics. For Roman, meticulous and systematic planning is essential to ensure that Janja remains both mentally and physically primed, with her motivation at its peak. This is their secret formula for achieving the remarkable success of winning the Olympic crown twice.

Roman ensures that every aspect of their training conditions is optimized, from selecting the ideal locations to choosing the right course setters. The Capra Restaurant, however, is the perfect backdrop for their discussions. It offers a superb menu featuring fresh fish and meat dishes, alongside locally sourced and seasonal vegetables, catering to their physical and mental needs. Additionally, the restaurant's distinctive architectural ambiance, which fuses the celebrated traditions of renowned architect Edo Mihevc with modern design elements, provides an inspiring setting for their conversations.

Each room in the hotel and restaurant is a masterpiece in itself, capturing the essence of Koper and the Primorska region. The hotel and restaurant vividly narrate the rich history of this coastal town, long recognized as a crucial commercial and cultural hub of Istria and a vital link among Adriatic coast towns. The town’s deep connection to goats is reflected in its old name, Capodistria, meaning "goat island." The diverse influences of seafarers from around the globe have left a unique cultural and artistic mark on Koper, which is beautifully showcased through an eclectic mix of materials, textures and vibrant colors throughout the spaces.

The hotel's white terrace is a truly special spot, offering remarkable views of the boundless sea and the bustling marina. It is here that Janja and Roman have their a post-lunch coffee, contemplating a future in Los Angeles that is still an open canvas, filled with high hopes and optimistic prospects. As Janja puts it: "The key is that I enjoy climbing, and that enjoyment naturally leads to great results."

Janja as an inspiration

Explore Slovenia with the world’s top sport climber, Janja Garnbret. Uncover the surprising connection between Janja and a world-renowned chef, and immerse yourself in the stunning beauty of her home region, Koroška. Visit the training grounds where Janja honed her skills alongside a close climbing friend who also took home a medal at the latest Olympics.

Slovenia: A playground for outdoor adventures

Diverse landscapes make Slovenia an ideal place for outdoor enthusiasts to explore its natural wonders. From long-distance hiking trails to challenging cycling routes and adrenaline-fueled adventures, Slovenia offers the perfect playground for exciting active experiences.