Šelmarija: A Unique Shrovetide Tradition of Kostanjevica na Krki

Šelmarija, a vibrant and unique Shrovetide custom in Kostanjevica na Krki, blends the rural and urban carnival traditions, creating a celebration full of mischievousness, humour and community spirit. Its name is believed to derive from the word "lumpanja", meaning madness or revelry, and it is symbolized by a beast — traditionally a pumpkin with a burning candle, but now a tin head. Central to the carnival are the šelmarji (from the German Schelm, meaning pranksters or tricksters), who are part of the Prforcenhaus group (from the French-German Parforce-Hatz, a hunting party).

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A Colourful and Spirited Carnival

Days before the carnival, the streets of Kostanjevica na Krki are adorned with colourful paper ribbons and flags. The carnival officially begins on Sunday morning with a cannon salute, followed by a parade of the Prforcenhaus assembly and musicians winding through the town’s streets. In the afternoon, the Kurent call marks the ceremonial takeover of power during the carnival. The procession includes important figures such as the ensign, Father Šelma, the canon, the priest, the president with the first lady, the purgars (orderlies), lamplighters, the city clerk, the city judge, the bank governor and the city lords, who visit all the gostilnas (typical Slovenian inns) in the town, spreading carnival cheer.

On Monday evening, the baklada takes place—a procession of children and Prforcenhaus members with torches, who gather at a general assembly. Here, they humourously reflect on the people and events of the past year. The purgars choose a new president of Prforcenhaus from the crowd and the evening culminates in a masked dance at the local tavern.

Unique Traditions and Festivities

On Tuesday morning, the carnival reaches its peak with the bear hunt: a group dressed as a bear, accompanied by a hound and the Prforcenhaus board, visits selected houses, a kindergarten and an elementary school. As the bear roams the streets, it catches passersby and smears them with a mysterious, playful substance. In the afternoon, plowing and sowing rituals are performed, with children pulling a plow through the streets, followed by a plowman and a sower scattering ashes. The procession also includes a lunch bearer with a hat made of old whistles and a doctor or nurse. The day concludes with a promenade concert by the Kostanjevica Wind Orchestra.

Wednesday brings an emotional conclusion to the festivities, with the Prforcenhaus members creating a doll of Kurent, placing it in a coffin and writing its will. The procession, stopping at inns, where drinks are served, then follows as the canon announces Kurent's death. A funeral procession then proceeds through the town, with the grieving widow and the gravedigger digging Kurent's grave. On the bridge, the judge reads the will, and the president of Prforcenhaus burns Kurent before lowering the ashes into the Krka River. The festival ends with a merry seventh day celebration.

The Central Characters of Šelmarija

The central figure of Šelmarija is Father Šelma (from the German Schelmenvater, or father of pranksters), dressed in black trousers, a tailcoat, and a top hat, holding the Šelma on a stick. The president of Prforcenhaus wears a red cloak, crown, and scepter, while the canon dons a red cloak, biretta and holds a rosary and book of litanies. The purgars, dressed in uniform and armed with sabers, maintain order. The bank governor, responsible for the carnival currency, the Kostanjevica means of payment, has played a key role since 1991. Newer figures include the town judge, clerk, lamplighters and dragoons. Most of the carnival characters are tied to the local history and traditions of Kostanjevica na Krki.

Since 1971, the Kostanjevica na Krki Wind Orchestra has played an essential role in the festival, providing music that adds to the carnival’s energy and atmosphere.

A Storied Tradition

According to local oral tradition, the Šelmarija festival dates back to 1854, with the oldest written descriptions dating from the late 19th century. More reliable records appear in the mid-20th century, and in 1968, the Šelmarija section of the Kostanjevica Tourist Association took on the responsibility of organizing the festival. In 2007, the festival was further professionalized with the formation of the independent Prforcenhaus Ethnological Society. Despite the introduction of new characters and elements over the years, the festival remains firmly rooted in local tradition, offering a timeless and joyous celebration that continues to evolve while honouring its cultural heritage.

Recommendation for a Visit

• Božidar Jakac Gallery: Currently hosting the exhibition Distant Gaze: New Objectivity and Realisms in Central Europe (1925-1933), available until March 23.

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• Suggested Experience: Explore the exhibits at Božidar Jakac Gallery, followed by a wine tasting at either Cvičkova Cellar or Jelenič Cellar, offering a delightful blend of art and local wine culture.

We also invite you to read the article about Kostanjevica na Krki. 

This article is part of an exciting partnership with with the Association of Historical Towns of Slovenia, of which Kostanjevica na Krki is also a member. The partnership aims to bring you captivating stories from the historical towns nestled across Slovenia. As a regular feature of News from Slovenia, delivered to our valued subscribers, readers can expect to discover exciting stories from these timeless cities in the coming months. The contents and photos for this article were provided by the Association of Historical Towns of Slovenia and Kostanjevica na Krki Tourism Board.

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